Desserts · Late Evening

Gulab Jamun

Makes about 18 · 50 minutes

Fried milk dumplings in rose-cardamom syrup — the dessert that ends more Indian celebrations than any other. The traditional base is khoya, milk reduced for hours to a fudge; our version uses milk powder because it works every time and lets the syrup, saffron, and cardamom do the celebrating.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup full-fat milk powder
  • 1/4 cup plain flour
  • 1/4 tsp baking soda
  • 2 tbsp ghee, plus more for frying (or neutral oil)
  • 4-5 tbsp warm milk, as needed
  • For the syrup: 2 cups sugar, 2 cups water
  • 8 cardamom pods, bruised
  • A few strands of saffron
  • 1 tsp rose water
  • Pistachio slivers, to serve

Method

  1. Make the syrup first: dissolve sugar in water with cardamom and saffron, simmer 5 minutes to one-thread consistency, then add rose water and keep warm.
  2. Rub together milk powder, flour, baking soda, and ghee. Add warm milk a spoonful at a time to a soft, slightly sticky dough. Do not knead hard.
  3. Rest 10 minutes, then roll into smooth, crack-free balls a little smaller than a walnut — cracks now become cracks fried.
  4. Heat ghee or oil to a gentle 150C; too hot and they brown raw inside.
  5. Fry in batches, keeping them moving, until an even deep amber all over, 6-8 minutes.
  6. Slip them straight from the fryer into the warm syrup and let them drink for at least 1 hour, turning once.
  7. Serve warm, two to a bowl, with syrup, pistachio, and no apologies.

Set the table to music

The last course of the night. We play it against our late-evening calm — slow sitar, almost nothing, the room settling into itself.

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